This job required a new, larger window to be cut through the foundation wall. We had to dig down to the footing on the exterior side so we could upgrade the weeping tile and tie in a vertical pipe into the new window well. We had an issue with the gas line location that supplied the house so we had the gas meter upgraded and moved towards the street so that it was completely out of the way. We used a Bobcat mini excavator for the digging process, which required private locates from G-TEL/ Ontario One Call. Once we reached our depth, we cut through the foundation on both sides and installed the new window. Prior to back filling we applied "Blueskin foundation water proofing membrane" directly to the raw concrete wall and as a secondary percussion we put "DMX foundation membrane" over top of the Blueskin. This gave us 2 layers of protection against water touching the foundation after the work was completed. We backfilled around a new pressure treated lumber window well. Next, we laid patio stones against the house on a small slope to stop any rain water/ snow from pooling on that side of the house in the future. On the interior side, we completely removed and replaced the stud wall due to mold issues. We primed the foundation wall with a special moisture stopping paint, applied a breathable air barrier and a foil/ insulated board directly behind the newly insulated stud wall. We ran 2 new electrical outlets for beside the end tables before new drywall, trim and an entire paint job for the new room.
This Project was a fun one. We had a very small kitchen and a very large dining area with a chimney that ran vertical through the ceiling that was no longer being used. We decided to remove an interior stud wall and the chimney to open up the kitchen and extend into the dining area. There was a very large window beside the chimney that just didn’t make sense. We removed it and re framed that wall completely to create a “Transom” style window that still allowed natural light to enter the kitchen. Once we had all the demolition and new framing completed, we ran new electrical outlets for above the new countertops to meet building code. Once the drywall was completed, we did a fresh coat of paint on the walls and trims and upgraded the light fixtures. Next, we installed new “Arcadia” brand cabinets, new countertops and upgraded the dishwasher.
We decided to use a luxury vinyl plank floor throughout the area. In a kitchen, it’s nice to have a durable, washable material, that is also comfortable to stand/ walk on while you spend many hours on throughout your day. On the exterior side we removed the chimney from the foundation, wall and roof. This required filling in the hole in the foundation wall and shingle roof as well as completely re building the entire exterior side. We kept the same natural pine “Board and Batten” look, patched in the concrete driveway with a “Swirl” finish and matched the parging for the “Block” finish. We also had to re run the sump line. We gave all the ABS/PVC lines a fresh coat of matching exterior paint so they would all look the same.
This project was an awesome job to be part of. JD Carpentry did everything but the subcontract work; Electrical and Tile Setting. Once completed it was truly a masterpiece! I met this new client in “Old South” London who had a vision of transforming her detached garage into a yoga retreat/ garden shed. She went ahead and hired a window and door company to install a beautiful Garden door with 2 side lights and a proper, egress/ awning window prior to me arriving on site in the quoting stage. We discussed the layout, building materials and building code requirements. Once she decided to hire us for the work, we dug a 20' long trench at 28" deep from her house to the garage. This was for a new electrical circuit to be ran from the main panel in the house out to the new sub panel in the garage/ shed area. I had everything framed up prior for the electricians so the did their rough in work then as well. After backfilling the trench and relaying the patio stones, we insulated the walls and ceiling, put in a proper vapour barrier, sheathed the walls and ceiling in preparation for finish "Shiplap". Once that was completed the tile setters came in to do their magic. We decided to do a “WIFI” enabled, heated tile floor that had a natural "Wood" look to it. The custom wire matt was already laid and inspected for the setters so they did a quick levelling pass and the next day laid the tiles. 2 days later the grout work was complete and we started on all the finish work. Shiplap ceiling, walls, custom jamb extensions for the window and door with casings, base and ceiling trims, custom "Floating" shelves and to finish it off; a custom built, day bed with a matching header. When all the trim work was finished, I came in for 2 coats with my HVLP paint sprayer. After the paint was cured the electricians came back for their final work, as well as the ESA Inspection, which produced the "Passed" ESA Inspection Certificate. We did our final clean up and the client brought in her furniture and started to enjoy her summer in her brand-new Yoga Retreat. On the shed side there was already an existing entry door for access. We sheathed the interior walls, put on a proper air barrier up, upgraded the electrical from the new sub panel, modified the rafters for a proper attic access above the yoga retreat and the project was complete.
This job we removed the exterior siding and found rotten sheathing, framing and insulation underneath. After we removed all the rotten materials we had to do some concrete repairs and capping prior to replacing the stud walls and sheathing. We used an exterior air barrier before strapping the exterior side for the new vertical siding. On the inside, we installed new insulation, vapour barrier, drywall, 3 coats of mud and tape, primed and 2 coats of paint and new casings. We also had to remove and re install 2 windows and one entry door with new capping on the exterior. Next was new aluminum soffit and facia capping followed by the vinyl siding. Everything was sealed up with elastomeric exterior caulking to finish up the job.
This job was done not because the existing shingles were expired but because the plywood beneath was so worn out that it would no longer hold the nails that were holding the shingles on top. We removed all the existing roofing materials and installed 7/16" OSB over top of the existing 3/8” plywood. Afterwards we rolled out 6' of ice and weather shield (because of the 2’ overhang) and Gaf Deck Armour up to the ridge line. Next we nailed down a 50 Year laminate shingle with all new step and chimney flashings, soil pipe covers and bathroom vents. We eliminated the box vents and upgraded to a continuous ridge vent system. Everything was sealed up with elastomeric exterior caulking to finish up the job.
This job had a 10' easement at the rear end of the lot with an overhead hydro line running through it. We decided to utilize a few feet of it by building a floating 10' X 10' shed. We framed the sheds floor, walls and roof on the ground. We laid out the perimeter of the floor and recessed 2” thick patio stones for where the 6" X 6" barring points would sit. This allowed a 2” air space from the bottom side of the floor joist to the ground. After levelling out the new floor we used 5/8" t&g spruce plywood for the floor sheathing. We then snapped lines for the walls and installed them and hand cut the roof system and installed them on top. To keep rodents from getting below the shed we dug down 6” around the perimeter and installed galvanized rabbit wire. Next, new aluminum soffit and facia capping, vinyl siding, 50 year shingle roof and a custom lockable door. The fence/ gate system is a 6', 100% privacy style build using 6” X 6” posts dug down 42” below grade with 3 bags of concrete per post. We used 2” X 6” top rails and painted metal post caps and gate hardware to finish.
We received a call from a new client saying their basement baseboards and carpet was wet directly below a window. When we arrived on site we removed the baseboard and a small section of the drywall and insulation. We found that there was a visible vertical foundation wall crack below the window and a small stream of water coming in through at the bottom onto the floor. We removed the carpet, wet framing, insulation and sprayed everything with "Mould Control". Next we broke out the floor with a jack hammer 1' on each side of the crack exposing the footing. This gave us enough room to allow for a piece of 4” perforated weeping tile to be installed Flush to the topside of the footing. By placing the top of the tile flush with the top of the footing we are creating a reservoir for the water to now collect under the concrete floor where it can naturally dispense into the underground water system. Next we installed vinyl dimple board on the interior side of the foundation wall, covering the vertical crack and sitting on top of the footing and tile. Afterwards we placed and finished new concrete for the floor, installed new framing, insulation, vapour barrier, drywall, 3 coats of mud and tape, prime and 2 coats paint, new vinyl plank flooring and trims to finish.
This job was actually the final step in a sunroom repair job we had done the previous fall. We had to remove the existing concrete to get under the sunroom’s floor system to the repair and it was too late in the season to pour new concrete. The client asked us to modify the design a bit for easier use of his snow blower in the winter months. First thing we laid out the form work and hand dug the grade down enough to allow for a proper 4” thick base using ¾” crushed stone. After tamping the gravel we tied into the existing side walk slabs using 10 mm re bare pins and laid a 6”x6” wire matt down helping strengthen the new slab. Next we placed and finished the new concrete, cut the control joints, removed the formwork and laid down grass around the perimeter to finish.
This project was originally priced as a reface and save job but quickly turned into a complete rebuild after completing the tare out portion. First step we made a new plan/ material list and had the materials delivered to the jobsite. Next we shored up the existing roof using 2”x 4” material. We removed the existing stairs, deck and handrails and hauled them off to the dump. Now that the jobsite was clear we could start rebuilding. We laid out for the new footings under the existing posts, dug and poured bell shaped footings using sonotubes down 4’ under the grade line. This method ensures a wider base to support the roof and snow load. Next we had to do a fair bit of brick repair due to natural deterioration because the building was over 100 years old. We attached the rim joist to the brick using ½” x 14” galvanized carriage bolts placed every 16” O.C. and we were able to strategically drill them through the building’s sill plate ensuring absolutely no movement in the future. Next we extended the roof posts down to the footing and built the exterior beam, floor system, installed the posts for the handrails and the deck boards. Next we laid out for the stair base. We like to have a 4” thick concrete base to place the stairs on because it’s simply the best way to go in our opinion. After forming and pouring a new slab we prebuilt the stair carriage on the saw horses and dropped it into place and installed the handrail system. Finally we installed a privacy lattice skirting around the perimeter to keep out wildlife and to allow for sufficient ventilation to finish.
We can help with; Bathroom and Basement Renovations, Egress Windows, Drywall, Trim, Painting, Tile, Hardwood and Vinyl Flooring, Fence/Deck and Shed Builds, Siding, Capping and Much More!
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We charge our Client's $150.00 (plus HST) for quotes and if they choose to go with our company we will deduct this amount from the final invoice.
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